Every July, the Jaintia Hills of Meghalaya host one of the state’s most spiritually charged and visually vibrant celebrations, the Behdienkhlam festival. Rooted in the ancient beliefs of the Pnar community, the festival serves both as a plea to the divine for a good harvest and as a symbolic act to ward off disease and misfortune. With colourful processions, sacred rituals, and energetic games, the monsoon celebration draws together tradition and community spirit in an unforgettable display of devotion and unity.
Behdienkhlam: Banishing Evil, Inviting Blessings
In Pnar language, ‘Behdienkhlam’ means ‘to drive away the plague’. According to Outlook Traveller, the festival begins after the sowing season and is meant to cleanse the community of illnesses and negative energy. Male members of the community lead the rituals, which include invoking deities like U Moo Lang and Musniang. Women, meanwhile, perform rituals at home to honour ancestors. Sacred wooden structures called ‘rots’, built by each locality, are paraded through the streets before being immersed in the sacred Aitnar pool, symbolising the spiritual cleansing of the land.
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Traditional Beliefs Meet Creative Displays
Young men carry elaborately decorated rots, tall symbolic towers that reflect historical, mythological, or local themes, during the Behdienkhlam procession. These artistic structures highlight the community’s creative spirit. The participants also beat rooftops with bamboo sticks to drive out evil spirits from homes and surroundings.
A Muddy Game Of Unity
The most exciting moment arrives with the traditional game of dad-lawakor. Played on a muddy field, it resembles football, where teams attempt to push a wooden ball across to the other side. This spirited contest brings the community together with joy, laughter, and friendly rivalry.
The Behdienkhlam festival is more than a monsoon celebration; it’s a deep expression of Pnar’s cultural identity and shared faith. From sacred rituals to muddy games, the festival offers a glimpse into a tradition that continues to unite and uplift Meghalaya’s hill communities year after year.
Cover Image Courtesy: Meghalaya Government Portal/website