As Diwali comes near, an enchanting aroma fills the air—whispers of family kitchens and age-old recipes that have travelled generations. For some of India’s most celebrated chefs and beyond, the festival of lights is a return to the warmth of their native kitchens and a reconnection to the flavours that define their expertise now. These chefs—guardians of tradition and artisans of innovation—speak of their mother’s recipes, the sizzle of spices in grandmother’s pan, and the unhurried pace at which their childhood kitchens unfolded. For many, the act of preparing these dishes is a spiritual journey. Now, they honour their heritage while recreating familiar flavours for today’s tables.
We delved into conversations with renowned chefs and restaurant owners, uncovering how they interpret and breathe new life into these traditional flavours in their professional kitchens. Through their heartfelt narratives, one understands how Diwali’s culinary rituals go beyond taste. For chefs, the time of Diwali marks a profound bond with one’s homeland, capturing the timeless truth that food is an emotion.
A Taste Of Home
“Growing up, my grandmother would make atta laddoos, which we lovingly referred to as ‘pinni’. It’s a rich treat made from home-churned ghee, roasted whole wheat flour, and a medley of dry fruits and nuts,” reminiscences Chef Astik Oberoi, Head Pastry Chef, The Leela Palace New Delhi. Some sweets remind you of the comfort of family gatherings, realising that recipes aren’t just made—they’re lived. For the Chef, these Diwali dishes honour those cherished traditions while embracing a contemporary twist.
“Inspired by the warmth and nostalgia of Diwali, at The Leela New Delhi, we reimagined the classic atta laddoo by crafting a cheesecake. It uses a similar ghee-roasted whole wheat base, replacing the conventional cookie crust. This indulgent dessert is layered with a luxurious saffron-spiced yoghurt cheesecake, slow-baked to perfection for an hour, and chilled for the ultimate texture. This Panjiri Yoghurt Saffron Cheesecake is a modern twist on a beloved traditional sweet,” he shares.
The Lodhi’s Executive Chef, Vijay Thapliyal, shares the same emotions. “Diwali has always been a time to cherish our roots and celebrate with family. Every year, my mother would start making sweets a week in advance. Food has the power to evoke memories and emotions. The entire house would come alive with the smell of freshly made laddoos and jalebis.” Not only that, hailing from Masons Pauri Garhwal in Uttarakhand, he fondly recalls the entire family gathering to prepare dishes like bhatt ki churkani, pisyu loon, kandali ka saag, chainsoo, and other cherished traditional recipes.
Similarly, for Amanbagh’s Executive Chef Achman Dhupar, Diwali was a cherished family time. They would repaint the house, carefully plan their shopping, and most eagerly, look forward to the sweets and savoury snacks prepared by his mother. On special days like Dhanteras, he cherished joining her to buy jewellery and new clothes—not just for the thrill of shopping, but for the chance to indulge in Jabalpur’s vibrant street food. “We gather together for a grand feast of homemade festive preparations like dahi vada, makhana kheer, paneer makhani, and biryani, served with hot phulkas,” he added.
A Story Of Ancestry Through Diwali
For these chefs, every spice, and every technique carries the weight of their roots, a personal history. And sometimes, the vibrant colours and aroma of the spices tell a story of ancestry. Trident, Gurgaon’s Executive Chef Saurabh Taneja honours his heritage with a culinary experience that speaks to a diverse audience. “Zarda pulao is one dish which brings back cherished memories of the Diwali season. My mother would prepare it, and the minute she opened the pressure cooker, the sizzle of ghee combined with the aroma of cardamom and saffron would draw me straight to the kitchen. We would all gather in the kitchen, adding our favourite ingredients like dry fruits, nuts, coconut and saffron. Then wait in anticipation as the pulao cooked. That’s when I knew that the festivities were around the corner.”
Across his kitchen, a common thread emerges the belief that food has the power to unite. “Now, as a chef, I always begin the festival season in the hotel by preparing a generous portion of Zarda Pulao, just as my mother did. Once again, the kitchen fills up with a familiar fragrance, mirroring the warmth of Diwali at home. Looking back, I am amazed at how such a simple dish became so deeply connected to the idea of celebration in my life. It’s a ‘make-or-break’ dish that, I’ve learned, relies on one secret ingredient: love,” he shares.
Take Chef Deepak Barua of Anantara Kalutara Resort in Sri Lanka whose culinary artistry is rooted in the vibrant traditions of Bengal. “In our home, no festive meal is complete without sweets,” Chef Deepak shares with a nostalgic smile “Traditional Bengali sweets can be a bit tedious to make, so we often buy treats from famous sweet shops. My favourites include Naru, which is delightful balls of jaggery and coconut. There’s Rassogulla and Sandesh, as well.” Now, he recreates these beloved household dishes in themed buffets, where he adds his unique culinary twist.
Being away from home during these festivals is often difficult. Chef Deepak fondly recalls the joy of sharing festive meals with his family, where rich mutton curry, or Kosha Mangsho, is savoured alongside steaming rice. Other beloved staples include Shorshe Ilish, Hilsa fish delicately cooked with mustard; Chingri Malai Curry, succulent prawns simmered in creamy coconut milk; and vegetarian delights like Baigun Bhaja, crispy fried eggplant drizzled with mustard oil.
Heritage Beyond Homeland
Though Diwali isn’t formally celebrated at Cambodia’s Siem Reap and Amansara, Executive Chef Sattar Seikh Rabul loves to bring the flavours of his homeland, Kolkata to his international kitchen. “In Kolkata, Diwali centres around Kali Puja. Growing up, it was about family warmth, the aroma of spices, and sharing food made with love. The kitchen became the heart of our home, where slow-cooked spices and fresh sweets embodied the season’s joy,” Chef Rabul reminiscences. “My earliest memories are of preparing elaborate feasts alongside my family. My grandmother’s secret recipes for kulfi, ras malai, and gulab jamun—which I am proud to now share with my guests.”
For Chef Rabul, cooking is a way of honouring his roots and sharing the warmth and richness of Indian cuisine. “For me, the soul of Diwali is in the connection between food, family, and tradition—a joy I strive to share with every guest.,” he strives for.
Also Read: This Is How Kartik Aaryan Celebrated Diwali As A Kid
On the other hand, for Chef Mangal Singh of Adityaa at NH Collection Colombo, Diwali is a homecoming to the foothills of the Himalayas. “Food was the thread that connected us to our culture and tradition. During Diwali, the kitchen was where everything came together family, stories, and the essence of who we were. I carry that same feeling with me today, sharing the soul of the mountains in every bite,” he reflects.
One dish that holds a special place is Bal Mithai. At Adityaa, Chef Mangal crafts a signature mithai platter that reimagines traditional sweets with modern touches, like saffron and cardamom-infused cream.”When I cook during Diwali, I feel like I’m back in my family kitchen. It’s about the memories, the stories, and the emotions tied to each dish. I want my guests to feel they’re part of a celebration”
For Aasim and Adeeb Shah, founders of Kofteci Foodkrafts Pvt. Ltd., which runs restaurant chain, Oz by Kebapci, festivals have always been about unity and diversity. Growing up in the West and Middle East, their celebrations transcended religious boundaries, bringing people together. “Our neighbours from the Middle East influenced us to create food that appealed to everyone, especially during festivals. For example, we’d prepare a milder biryani, unlike the spicy Ambur biryani from our mother’s hometown. Good food makes people feel a little more content,” they reflect.
Whether it’s the sweetness of besan laddoos or the comforting familiarity of dal makhani, we are partaking in a larger narrative—a story of family and heritage that finds its expression through the art of cooking.
All image credits: Canva