There are places which strive too much to impress you. Dark lighting, complex cocktails, and menus that are long-like essay. And then there is PUBLIC – Beer Hall & Snack Bar that comes with the quiet confidence that they are fully aware of what they are doing in the Mumbai scene.
PUBLIC – Beer Hall & Snack Bar In Mumbai You Didn’t Know It Needed
Hiding in a busy neighbourhood of Versova, PUBIC evokes memories of a time when bars were about sitting down and talking, laughing, and missing your intentions of going home early. The old-school Indian beer bars, gymkhanas, and Irani cafes inspire the atmosphere. The basic funda is to make everything deliciously simple, with cold beer, and local Indian snacks that make you feel like ordering more.
But, there’s no fries, nachos or fancy gimmicks.
Just plain food and extremely cold beer.
Everything Second, Beer First!
Drinks are the main attraction at PUBLIC, and they are pleasantly unpretentious about it. The menu promises them what they are sure to say: the coldest beer in town.
I sampled three beers: Susegado, England IPA, and Poha Lager. Each had its own personality. The IPA arrived with that typical bitter kick that craft lovers enjoy, and the Poha Lager was a little lighter and consumed easily over an extended evening. Susegado was like the in-between place, easy, even, and dangerously simple to keep ordering.
There are technically cocktails, but PUBLIC makes it evident that beer and spirits are put at the forefront in this context. And, to be truthful, that is what is charming.
Local Snacks That Steal The Spotlight
The meals at PUBLIC are not meant to be placed next to your drink in a polite manner. It demands attention.
The Sweet Chips were crisp, slightly sweet and far more desirable snacking material than the greasy fries that are the dominant diet of most bar menus.
Then there was the Dahi Baingan, and it possibly was the best one on the menu. Smooth yoghurt, smoky baingan choka, crispy papad, and a hint of the popping flavour of the mustard oil. There is no other word to consider other than addictive.
The Mushroom Pashte Pati was a surprise as I had expected a hard texture with a heavy mushroom taste. Instead, what arrived was soft and had a faint touch of chilli oil and fried garlic that gave it another umami. It was more than comfortable in its richness, and that was drawing me back.
But the real hero? The Chicken Seekh Kebab. Seekh made juicy chicken is widely known as a dish that is hard to master, but PUBLIC got it right.
The buttery Tingmo with Scallion Butter, where you could have it with almost everything, and the Ghee Pepper Chicken Tangdi, where you could feel the toasted pepper and fried garlic without stinging your tongue, were also some of the highlights.
The Kheema Patti Samosa also deserves a mention. Thin crust, generous kheema filling, exactly how it should be.
One dish that had another fan base was Clams with Feni and Tamarind. The flavours were interesting, but the meaty intensity of the clams might require a more acquired palate.
Don’t forget to order the chakli churros at PUBLIC, or else you’ll regret your visit. That crunchy yet soft and flavourful snack is aesthetic and scrumptious.
Ending On A Sweet Note
Surprisingly, the dessert became very memorable.
The Orange Juice Cake with chocolate custard was smooth and cosy, but the Coconut Tapioca Pudding was the highlight. It was playful and surprising with lemon curd and coconut crunch as the added flavours and textures.
The Verdict
PUBLIC is not looking to be the trendiest bar in town. And that is the reason why it works.
It is the type of neighbourhood joint that you visit to have just one drink and end up staying longer, eating good food, beer, and having better conversations.
And again, frankly, Mumbai need more such places.
Where: 7A & 7B, JP Rd, Aram Nagar Part 2, Machlimar, Versova, Andheri West, Mumbai 400061
When: 6 PM onwards
Price: INR 2000–3000 for two
Cover Image Courtesy: Supplied
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