Goa’s once sun-bathed beaches have now given way to lush, green landscapes. The air is now filled with the earthy scent of wet soil. While many associate Goa with its beaches and vibrant nightlife, there’s a side that truly comes alive during the monsoons—its picturesque Latin Quarters, especially Fontainhas. The rains add a certain mystique to the place, enhancing the colours, sounds, and smells. It’s the perfect time to explore its rich tapestry of food, art, and history.
The Charm Of Fontainhas
As the monsoon clouds roll in, Goa transforms into a lush, green paradise. Fontainhas, with its colonial architecture and winding lanes, takes on an ethereal beauty under the gentle patter of rain. Fontainhas is often referred to as Goa’s Latin Quarter. The colonial-style buildings are in a palette of vibrant colours—pastel blues, yellows, and reds—adorned with wrought iron balconies and terracotta-tiled roofs. The vibrant hues of the buildings are a photographer’s dream. The usual throngs of tourists thin out, leaving behind a more serene and authentic experience. It’s a time when the locals are more relaxed, and the pace of life slows down.
Walking through the Latin Quarter is like taking a step back in time. The neighbourhood, which dates back to the 18th century, was once the heart of Goa’s Portuguese community. The architecture here is distinctly European, with terracotta-tiled roofs, ornate balconies, and grand doorways, each telling a story of its own. The pastel buildings have been turned into heritage hotels, villas, art galleries, and luxurious cafés. The region has managed to preserve its architecture, culture, and distinctive design.
Fontainhas residents still follow a tradition of painting their houses every year, as per folklore from Portuguese times. Street names include Portuguese words, such as Corte de Oitero and Rua 31 de Janeiro. Each of these has a unique tale and significance. Although some buildings are in a deteriorated state, many retain their colonial beauty.
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A Culinary Journey Like No Other
No visit to Fontainhas is complete without indulging in its culinary delights. The neighbourhood is home to some of the best traditional Goan restaurants and cafes.
Joseph Bar is an old heritage pub from the Portuguese era. It is located on a narrow road known for its unique Goan food, groovy music, and great drinks. Viva Panjim is a quaint restaurant set within a 150-year-old heritage home. The restaurant is known for its authentic Goan dishes, such as pork vindaloo, prawn balchao, and fish curry rice. The cosy ambience, with its old-world charm and monsoon views, makes it the perfect spot.
Rua 31 de Janeiro is one of the most iconic streets in Goa’s Latin Quarters. It is also home to the famous Confeitaria 31 de Janeiro, one of the oldest bakeries in Goa. This bakery is renowned for its traditional Goan sweets and pastries, such as bebinca. Visit Antonio@31 to have a few drinks and some delicious food. is the perfect venue for that. It’s a small neighbourhood tapas bar known for offering Goan small meals with punchy cocktails, a trippy playlist, and the greatest atmosphere in town. For those looking to explore the contemporary side of Goan cuisine, Kokni Kanteen offers a delightful fusion of traditional flavours with modern twists. Their monsoon specials, such as crab xec xec and Goan sausage pulao, highlight the best of the season’s bounty. Paired with a refreshing kokum drink, these dishes offer a taste of Goa that is both familiar and exciting.
An Artsy Affair Here
Fontainhas is not just a historical treasure; it’s also a thriving hub for artists and creatives. As you walk through the neighbourhood, you’ll notice several art galleries tucked away in the old buildings, each offering a glimpse into Goa’s vibrant art scene.
One of the highlights is the Gitanjali Gallery, located within a 200-year-old Portuguese mansion. The gallery showcases contemporary works by local and international artists, with a special focus on Goan art. For those interested in traditional Goan art, a visit to the Mario Gallery is a must. The Mario Gallery, of which there are six scattered across Goa, is dedicated to the famed and decorated cartoonist Mario Miranda in Goa. Miranda’s whimsical depictions of Goan life, with its unique characters and everyday scenes, are brought to life.
While the neighbourhood is charming throughout the year, the monsoon season adds a layer of magic that is hard to resist. Whether you’re a history buff, an art lover, or a foodie, Fontainhas is a place where history, art, and food come together to create a truly unique experience.
So, when are you going to Goa’s Fontainhas?
Cover image credits: Goa Tourism