Mumbai’s iconic Irani bakeries are fighting to preserve their traditional wood-fired ovens amidst a civic body directive mandating conversion to modern alternatives. The Brihanmumbai Municipal Corporation or the BMC has ordered all bakeries to switch to electric, LNG or LPG-fired ovens by July 7, 2025, following a Bombay High Court directive. Here are all of the other important details that you would need to know about this particular appeal made by Irani bakers in the city.
Should Irani Bakeries Be Exempt From The Ban On Firewood?
According to an article that was recently published by Times Now or TN, the Irani Bakers Association or the IBA has appealed to the state government for an exemption. They argued that these bakeries are integral to Mumbai’s cultural identity.
Many of these establishments, some over a century old, claim that the distinctive taste of their ‘pav’ (bread) comes from traditional hardwood ovens equipped with tall chimneys. Perzon Zend of the historic Yazdani Restaurant & Bakery emphasises their use of proper hardwood rather than plywood or scrap wood.
Similarly, Farokh Shokri, whose Kyani And Co has been operating for 120 years, points out that these bakeries are already recognised in heritage walks. Former BJP corporator Makarand Narwekar has written to Chief Minister Devendra Fadnavis about the same.
Conservation Of Tradition Versus Conservation Of Environment
Narwekar advocated for the heritage status of these bakeries. He draws parallels with New York and the Netherlands, where historic establishments receive exemptions to preserve traditional methods. The practical challenges of conversion are significant.
IBA President Khodadad Irani notes that converting approximately 500-600 wood-fired bakeries across Mumbai would require at least three years. The financial implications are substantial, with each conversion costing between ₹15-20 lakh. The IBA is seeking government subsidies of 50 to 60 per cent and support for long-term bank loans.
Additional hurdles include inadequate gas infrastructure and difficulties in storing LPG cylinders. The IBA warns that this transition could disrupt the supply of pav, affecting Mumbai’s beloved street food culture, particularly the iconic vada pav.
Cover Image Credits: Wikimedia Commons and @kyaniandco_official/Instagram
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