In the vibrant tapestry of Melbourne’s culinary scene, Chef Helly Raichura emerges as a maestro. She orchestrates a symphony of Indian and Australian flavours at her celebrated Indian fine diner, Enter Via Laundry. Curated in collaboration with Conosh, this exclusive event, titled “Flavours of India and Australia,” unfolded a gastronomic masterpiece at Taj Santacruz on January 13, 2024. From captivating audiences on Masterchef Australia to presenting Indian-Australian culinary spectacle in Mumbai, her culinary journey is certainly nothing short of an epicurean odyssey. She graciously gave us a sneak peek into her world. She shared the stories behind her innovative dishes, her creative process, and also the harmonious blend of traditions that define Enter Via Laundry.
Here’s All That We Got To Know About Chef Helly Raichura
1. In merging Indian and Australian flavours for your special event in Mumbai, did you encounter any surprising pairings that worked exceptionally well together?
I found that ponkh and finger lime worked really well together. The goal of my collaborative dinner with Conosh was to create interesting flavours and combinations, and this one really hit it out of the park. We don’t get fresh ponkh here in Melbourne, and as it was January, I grabbed the opportunity to use this ingredient on the menu and dress it up with finger lime. While finger lime imparted a citrus pop, ponkh imparted a fresh vegetal pop and they went really well together.
2. What is your creative process when developing a new dish? Are there specific rituals or sources of inspiration you turn to?
To start with, I try to pick South Indian regions for spring and summer menus and northern for winter. I start at least a year in advance and start collecting information about a particular region and cuisine. I’ll be honest; it’s a selfish process where I indulge in learning the history and food habits of the region and, at times, music as well. When we get closer to launch, I try to visit the place and eat the dishes that I have researched and found interesting. I think, in my subconscious, dishes are always waiting for the right ingredient or flavour, and they take shape in time along the way in iterations.
3. How do you strike the right equilibrium between traditional Indian flavours and native Australian ingredients, ensuring a harmonious dining experience?
I try not to deviate from the core of a recipe, which is where the authenticity lies. I use Australian native produce as herbs more than spices and for citrus elements, which do not take over the overall authenticity of the dish.
4. Melbourne is known for its diverse culinary scene. How do you cater to a wide range of palates while maintaining the authenticity of your dishes at Enter Via Laundry?
I don’t cater to all palates, unfortunately; I think it is just not possible. But I have never had an Indian guest leave without meeting me face to face and congratulating me, inviting me over for dinner, being friends with me, or feeling proud of what I am doing. I believe Indian audiences are the toughest to please, as they have eaten this food all their lives, and they have all so far responded well, which, in fact, was the beginning of a conversation with Conosh about doing a pop-up in India after the team visited my restaurant, Enter Via Laundry.
The Conosh team’s efforts certainly paid off, as the patrons at the Mumbai dinner were pleasantly surprised with the flavours and told me how they enjoyed the innovation and comfort that my dishes brought them. And then there are guests who love Indian food from their travels—their love of spice and country—who want something thought-through and elevated to their palates and are always pleased.
5. Are there any Australian ingredients that have become personal favourites and found a permanent place in your recipes?
Davidson’s plum has replaced tamarind for me. It’s just so deliciously sweet and sour and with so much pectin content, it makes the best fruit chutneys. I used them in my dinner with Conosh in Mumbai; it was actually quite fun to watch people trying to figure out the flavours!
6. As a chef known for innovative culinary creations, can you share an instance where you experimented with an unconventional technique or ingredient?
I am making this rasam I am obsessed with, where we are taking the concept of spicy, aromatic and fresh from rasam but making it with melons, cucumbers, lemon myrtle, and pepper. It has no curry leaf or tomatoes, nor is it cooked, but it has this heart of rasam, which is refreshing and has a punch of flavour. I am waiting for people from Kerala living in Melbourne to come in and try it and give me their verdict.
7. Looking ahead, what are some culinary goals or projects you aspire to undertake in the future? Is there a particular direction you see your culinary journey taking?
I am hoping to keep cooking regional Indian cuisine, educate a wider audience about the depth and richness of our cuisine, and keep trying to lift its profile to where it belongs. Collaborating with food enthusiasts like Conosh has been an adventure, and I am looking forward to more dinners and experiences with them, whether in India or back in Australia. And I cannot wait for my book to come out this August. It covers the evolution of our cuisine. I aspire to keep learning, collecting information and sharing.
This Or That?
To make things more interesting, we indulged her in a game:
- Pani Puri or Vada Pav?
Vada Pav
- Cumin or Coriander?
Coriander
- North Indian or South Indian?
South Indian
- Masala Chai or Filter Coffee?
Filter Coffee
- Naan or Roti?
Naan
A Deeper Insight Into Her Preferences
- If you had to choose one Indian street food to introduce to someone unfamiliar with Indian cuisine, what would it be, Butter Chicken Pizza or Curry Tacos?
Uffff… can I say sev puri?
- Sweet, Sour, Spicy, or Salty—which flavour profile do you enjoy playing with the most in your dishes?
Salty
- One spice or ingredient do you believe is essential in every Indian kitchen?
Turmeric
- If you had to pick one street food joint in Mumbai, which would it be?
Ashok Vada Pav near Kirti College
With a passion for learning, sharing, and creating, Chef Helly Raichura is certainly set to inspire and tantalise taste buds.
Cover Image Courtesy: Press Release and Enter Via Laundry/Instagram
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