CT Review: Indian Accent Delhi Has An Intimate New Upstairs Bar With A Martini Trolley You’ll Remember

When you hear that Indian Accent has opened a bar, your expectations automatically sit sky-high. This is a restaurant that has defined modern Indian fine dining for years. So what happens when it decides to loosen its tie, dim the lights, and pour martinis instead? You go Upstairs, and you leave completely smitten.

An Evening Upstairs At Indian Accent

The moment I stepped in, the mood was set. Upstairs isn’t loud or overwhelming. It’s intimate, candle-lit, and warm, with a tall bar right at the centre, almost demanding your attention. The space feels luxurious but never intimidating. Think plush furnishings, Sabyasachi-designed wallpaper, low lighting, and a sense that the night is meant to be slow, indulgent, and unhurried.

And then there’s the live jazz. As Alyse Pascoe’s voice filled the room, there were moments when I genuinely wanted to get up and dance. Her warm, interactive presence made the space feel alive, like one of those evenings where conversations flow easily, drinks keep coming, and time simply disappears.

The Martini Trolley Is Where The Night Truly Begins

Let’s talk about the martini trolley, because it deserves its own moment. It rolls up to your table, and suddenly you’re part of a ritual. These aren’t rushed drinks made behind the bar. Each martini is crafted in front of you. Now, martinis are notoriously spirit-forward, and honestly, not everyone’s thing. But Upstairs doesn’t dilute them to make them “easy.” Instead, they elevate them, adding Indian ingredients that make them intriguing, balanced, and surprisingly approachable.

The Desi Dirty Martini completely stole my heart. Gin meets nimbu-infused vermouth and nimbu achaar brine, and somehow, it works beautifully. It’s sharp, savoury, and deeply satisfying. It is easily one of the most exciting drinks I’ve had in recent times. The Fennel & Tequila Martini was another standout. It is aromatic and slightly herbal, with grapefruit saccharum-oleo and dill adding layers you don’t expect but instantly appreciate. Even if you think martinis aren’t for you, try them here. Upstairs might just change your mind.

Cocktails That Feel Familiar, But New

Beyond the martinis, the cocktail menu continues to impress with its Indian-ingredient-rooted approach, conceptualised by Varun Sharma, Head of Bars at EHV International. The Smoked Sol Kadhi Punch was comforting yet complex, with coconut fat-washed mezcal blended with kokum sol kadhi and curry leaf. 

And then came my favourite non-martini drink of the night: the Paan Negroni. This one felt like a revelation. Betel leaf-infused gin, rose-gulkand vermouth, and Campari come together to create something that smells intoxicating and tastes even better. It felt like the perfect end-of-meal drink – not dessert, not digestif, but a replacement for that after-dinner paan ritual.

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Markets Of Delhi Served On Plates

Food at Upstairs stands tall on its own. Curated by Indian Accent Head Chef Hitesh Lohat, the menu revolves around a quarterly theme. The inaugural one, Markets of Delhi, instantly struck a chord. We started light. The Homemade Crisps with masala bhutta mousse and carambola chutney were playful and addictive. The Chickpea Sadeko with Smoked Yoghurt brought comfort with a gentle smokiness.

The Flower and Green Leaf Chaat, inspired by the Gazipur flower market, surprised me the most. Made from greens and flowers after the market’s early-morning chaos, it was fresh, thoughtful, and quietly brilliant. The Prawn Jhol Momo from Lajpat Nagar followed. Delicate dumplings, paired with roasted tomato chutney, added just the right punch.

Then came a dish that truly tells a Delhi story: the Kabab Sando. Served on pillowy shokupan, this chicken sandwich is inspired by a legendary kabab cart in Karol Bagh. Chef Lohat grew up eating here, and you can taste the nostalgia. Anyone who’s been to Karol Bagh knows exactly the cart he’s talking about, even if it doesn’t have a name.

The Old Delhi Fried Chicken, inspired by Jama Masjid, was bold, spiced, and indulgent, everything you love about street food, but refined without losing its soul. The Lamb Patthar Kabab with bone marrow, inspired by Nizamuddin, was deeply flavourful and rich, while the Kathi Rolls from Bengali Market were comforting and satisfying.

And of course, the kulchas. If you go to Indian Accent for their kulchas, Upstairs does not disappoint. The Winter Pea Kulcha with goat’s cheese and fresh truffle was delicate and luxurious, while the Pulled Duck Kulcha with chilli apricot chutney delivered bold contrasts. The Mutton Keema Kulcha, with salsa and star fruit chutney, felt like the perfect bridge between indulgence and familiarity.

Ending On A Sweet Note

Dessert at Upstairs is just as thoughtful. The Kulfi Falooda Kakigori, inspired by Chandni Chowk, was icy, creamy, nostalgic, and refreshing all at once. The White Truffle Kheer with caramelised nuts and shakkar para, inspired by Mehrauli Market, felt rich yet balanced.

And then there are the liqueur ice creams, each one deserving a spoonful (or three). From Coorg coffee with rum and Kahlua to cognac with honey-vanilla, they’re indulgent without being heavy.

Upstairs at Indian Accent doesn’t try to be flashy. It doesn’t scream for attention. Instead, it invites you in, pours you a martini, feeds you stories of Delhi’s markets, and lets the jazz do the rest.

It’s a place where you come for one drink and stay for the entire night. And honestly? I can’t wait to go back Upstairs.

Cover Image Courtesy: Mallika Khurana and Supplied