“I remember waking up to gloomy skies and moderate to heavy rains, but most of all, the experience of returning to the village for holidays. It’s nostalgia for a lot of us,” Athan Zimik recalls fondly. A native of Nagaland, Zimik is a food evangelist who is currently working as a Culture Chief at OMO Cafe, Gurgaon. The Gurgaon-based cafe mostly works around with food and ingredients from Nagaland. Monsoon holds a special place in the hearts of the Nagas. The arrival of rain is celebrated with great enthusiasm.
Foraging Life In Nagaland
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“Monsoon in Nagaland moves to the rhythm of the agricultural season and rice transplanting,” Zimik says. During this time, notably, its unique food-foraging culture reflects its intimate connection with the land, the forests, and the resources nature provides. “Foraging constitutes 70% of the indigenous Naga food system. We rely heavily on agriculture and foraging, which play an essential role in safeguarding the rich ecosystem that provides for the community. Naga food is ingredient-driven and primarily seasonal. With the rainy season also comes an abundance of food.”
On my maiden visit to the state last December, I was surprised how the flavours of the food prepared oozed out even with just two or three ingredients. These ingredients are all foraged from the forests and do not outweigh the natural taste of the vegetables or meal being cooked. Forget the concept of masalas and heavy oil when relishing these heavenly dishes.
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However, it is also a skill that is passed down through generations, with each tribe having its own unique methods and practices. “There are 66 Naga tribes, 17 of which reside in the present state of Nagaland. Most tribes have their own cooking style, but the common denominator is using varied ingredients local to their specific regions,” Zimik enlightens me. “Each Naga tribe’s distinctive cuisine is based on our rich biodiversity of endless leaves, tubers, and mushrooms. For example, Axone (pronounced Akhuni which means deep aroma) is widely used by the Sumi tribe. Anishi(fermented Taro leaves) is popular amongst the Ao tribe. The Tangkhul people cook their pork with a lot of chilli flakes.”
Nagas have a deep respect for nature. They gather only what they need and avoid over-exploitation of resources. Moreover, it is not uncommon for neighbours and extended family members to forage and cook together. “Naga people have always had the consciousness of shared responsibility. The idea of sharing is very strong in rural regions. The variety of food you’ll have for dinner is still determined by what your neighbour will share. Be it something that they cooked or freshly foraged produce,” he adds. “Community cooking is a lifestyle. But now, it is practised only in celebrations and festivals.”
Monsoon Food Is Ingredient-Driven Here
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As the rains pour down upon the lush hills of Nagaland, families come together to savour the unique flavours of smoked meats, bamboo shoots, and spicy chillies. The ingredients and dishes that flourish during this season reflect the deep connection between the Nagas and their environment. “The ingredients to the indigenous population are more than food; it is a ritual, a passing of knowledge, the stories of thankful hearts, and the dot that connects the past, the present, and the future. Food and culture are very much interlinked,” Zimik shares.
When it’s monsoon time in Nagaland, the iconic ingredient is bamboo shoot. The curry, Eromba is a traditional Naga curry made with fermented bamboo shoots, dried fish, and various vegetables. It’s known for its pungent aroma and robust flavours.
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“The season relishes a variety of fresh bamboo-shoot-based foods. The harvesting of bamboo shoots stops when the rice starts its first flower. Legends have it that the sound of the shoots cracking affects the rice’s breeding. It is still a taboo in many villages. While I was growing up, we would harvest only the curved shoot and leave the Alamo. Grandma would say that the Alamo points towards the sky as a testament to our integrity to the creator of heaven and earth. Cutting it breaks that covenant,” he fondly recalls.
Similarly, other delectable monsoon dishes reflect the region’s unique biodiversity. “Some of the food enjoyed during monsoon. Homegrown leaves like the biscot shoots, roselle leaves, and yam shoots; different varieties of local cucumber and pumpkin; rich varieties of corn and foraged wild figs, wild kiwi, sour mangosteen, (Raothei mutha, thakutha, unidentified),” he brings to notice.
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Sustaining Traditions
In addition, condiments play a pivotal role in Naga cuisine year-round, but during the monsoon season, this love affair reaches its peak. “We, Naga people, take our condiments very seriously. Umami is its key characteristic,” Zimik tells me enthusiastically.
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“Bitter eggplant chutney made with naga garlic, fresh ginger, fermented fish or Axone roasted green chilli, and topped with mountain pepper is one of the favourites. It is distinctive in taste with a hint of bitterness and umami, giving a sweet aftertaste. A heavy meal usually accompanies it,” he shares. “The roasted tree tomato chutney with Naga king chilli and fish mints with ginger and naga garlic is another favourite condiment.”
If you frolic around the typical villages and houses in Nagaland, chances are that you’ll spot an abundant array of ingredients and plants. The houses are amidst rice farms and kitchen gardens look like a mini forest of wholesome food.
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“We love our mountain pepper and the Naga tree tomato. Mountain pepper, known by many tribe names, such as tangkathei, is lemony mint and has the flavour of many spices. It is also loosely called the all-spice. You’ll find tree tomatoes abundantly grown in the home gardens of the hilly terrains. This small, oval-shaped tomato is sweet-tangy and incredibly tasty. They work as condiments with Naga king chilli and Axone or fermented fish,” he says.
My favourite attribute about Nagaland, apart from the kind people, is how the food culture represents unity, gratitude, and a deep connection with the land. “North-Eastern food comprises 70% forage leaves and foods from the forest that are sustainable and resilient to rain or pests. Indigenous Naga food systems are non-exploitive. It is planet-friendly and doesn’t cost a thing,” as Zimik rightfully puts it.
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So, when are you heading to the green Nagaland to savour their rich monsoon delights?
Cover image credits: Canva