Research about Mavalli Tiffin Rooms (MTR) began at home. My home! You see, MTR has fed four generations of my family. At the 100-year-old establishment, my great-grandfather parcelled Udupi-style lunches that reminded him of Udupi— the home he left for greener pastures. At MTR, in the 1980s, my grandparents devoured ₹15 rupee Rava Idlis on silverware. At MTR, in 1993, my mother received a generous treat by her collegemate, Shubha Maiya. At MTR, in 2025, I, the fourth generation of my family, sat face-to-face with Hemamalini Maiya ( the third generation of hers), at the very same institution— flanked on Lal Bagh Road, Bengaluru— that has witnessed a part of our lineages.
Bengaluru’s MTR Celebrates 100 Years With A Coffee Table Book
“I am a protector and a caretaker of MTR. That’s my job — caretaking,” said Hemamalini Maiya, the current custodian and managing partner of MTR Restaurants, as we sipped cups of piping hot filter kaapi in her cushy little office. A labyrinth of narrow passageways through the kitchen led me to her office. A space she used to play hide-n-seek in when her father, the late Harishchandra Maiya, was in the helm of affairs.
Hemamalini Maiya and I met for a chat ahead of the launch of their new coffee table book, The MTR Story: A Labour of Love authored by Pratima Chabbi. The book weaves together fascinating anecdotes of the heritage restaurant that has weathered the storms of World War II and the Emergency Period; let adversities fuel culinary inventions ( Rava Idli, Rava Dosa, Chandrahara, Fruit Salad with Ice Cream); and visionary thinking (drive-in services and pre-packaged masalas and batter) wow masses.
Hemamalini Maiya Talks To Curly Tales
1) How has this journey at MTR been for you?
I’ve completed 25 years. It’s my silver anniversary at MTR. Actually, I never thought we’d cross 100 years. When I stepped into the business in 2000, I was the first woman from my family to step in as my brother wasn’t ready.
I took over the reins of MTR without thinking too much about how I would be accepted or treated. But I made up my mind to give my best shot because my dad had told me, during his last few months: “Try and do what you can. I don’t know whether you’ll be successful or not, but just get involved.”
So, I blindly stepped into the business at the age of 27, thinking I’ll give my best shot. It was a day-to-day survival for me. There was politics being played by old employees who couldn’t accept me as a boss. I understand things were different those days. Many of them (with decades of experience at MTR) had seen me grow up and it was difficult for them to accept a woman boss.
My initial few weeks at MTR were all about day-to-day survival. I had to put on this mask of being tough and relentless so people would take me seriously as there were a lot of things that had gone wrong in the restaurant. Quality-wise because my dad wasn’t present (due to ill health). My aim was just to bring normalcy into the business after my father’s demise.
2) What were some of the things you focused on after you took over the business?
If you ordered coffee then, you wouldn’t even see milk in it. The milkman got away with diluting the milk because nobody supervised it. There was uncertainty because my dad was hospitalised for a couple of weeks before he fell into a coma. The environment was disturbed, and some people took advantage of these uncertainties.
The first thing I did when I walked into MTR was step into the kitchen to run quality checks. Thankfully, I knew how every dish should taste. So, I made sure things were done a certain way.
When it comes to quality, I never compromise. I remember making the milkman test the milk fat in front of me after this coffee incident. If I felt the milk had water in it, I would refuse to pay him. That was for 200 litres! So, he didn’t wish to risk it either.
Instilling discipline in employees was a challenge for me. I did what I had to do without thinking about whether people liked me or not. I tried to be as fair as my father. He was a very fair person. So, I tried to step into his shoes and think like him when I started my journey.
3) Legacy restaurants, especially darshinis in Bengaluru, prefer to stick to their maiden location. Why did you decide to expand?
In 2004, our advisor, who’s also our mentor, informed us of a space in Malleshwaram. For me, at that time, it was a test of whether we could survive out of a new location.
With this trial expansion, I learned a lot of lessons. It taught me that even a change in water matters for coffee, just like the change in kitchen air matters for fermentation. I also observed employees whose potential was curbed. I felt they could do so much more by giving them more responsibilities.
The confidence and learnings we gained from our first expansion experience, we applied it to take MTR global as well. Similarly, our well wishers approached us for opportunities in Singapore and Dubai. We weren’t seeking expansion. It just happened organically as we associated ourselves with people we trusted, whose vision matched ours.
4) Tell us each generation’s significant contributions to MTR.
My grand-uncles (Parmeshwara and Ganappayya Maiya): Laid the foundation of MTR.
Their youngest brother, my grand-uncle (Yagnanarayana Maiya): Invented Rava Idli, Rava Dosa, Chandrahara, Fruit Salad with Ice Cream, briefly started drive-in services and shifted MTR to its current location
My father (Harishchandra Maiya) and uncle (Sadananand Maiya): Launched pre-packaged masalas and mixes during the Emergency in 1976.
I (Hemamalini Maiya): Expanded MTR across the city and the globe
5) What’s the most valuable piece of advice you’ve received?
My father would always tell me, “Never put yourself first.”
He was a living, breathing example of somebody who could give, and give, and give. He never put himself first.
Whatever money the business generated, he gave it all to his employees as televisions, washing machines, two-wheelers, groceries and even petrol. A few years before he passed away, he wanted to give a site to every employee in Bangalore. This is not an exaggeration! He had that in mind. I’ve never seen a giver like him.
A lot of people think we were born with a silver spoon. I had a great life, but when I came into this business, I had nothing because my dad had given everything to everybody. We were never given anything on a silver platter.
My dad once told us: “I’m not going to leave you anything. I’m only going to leave you this legacy. You earn your living.”
I’m not a giver like him. He was an extraordinary person. My father also taught me the importance of integrity through his words and actions. We watched his personality run this business.
6) Do you feel you are divinely guided by your ancestors while running this business?
Absolutely! If I’m in trouble, I always think of my dad or grand-uncle (Yagnappa).
I silently ask them for guidance: “What would you do if you were in my situation? Give me an answer!”
I notice that after some time, things settle down. A path is shown! I’ve always felt that. I believe I’m guided by my father and my grand-uncles.
7) What are some of your fondest memories at MTR?
I grew up with the employees of MTR and their kids. I used to live in a house just down Siddaiah Road. Next to my home were living quarters for the employees who worked at MTR. We grew up with their children. There were like 20-25 of us.
The best part of my innings on this Earth will be those first few years of my life! Maximum fun! We staged plays and even celebrated festivals together. To date, I’m in touch with them.
8) The small container of tuppa (ghee) served with idlis and dosas adds a playful DIY touch. When was this introduced?
It has always been the case. If idlis came without that katori of ghee the old customers will come and beat you up.
(At this point, we laugh heartily)
They’d say, “What the hell is this? What have you done?” They would take it very personally. So, we haven’t changed anything, ever since we shifted to this current building in 1959.
This tradition of serving small katoris with tuppa (ghee) with idlis and dosas was started by my grand-uncles. And then my father continued this tradition and so did I. You know, we don’t dare to change anything! People will take offence.
You can’t even change this cup! (Lifts the signature white coffee-stained ceramic cup).
This coffee cup is made only for us by our supplier. It’s not available at any shop. There was a time when we couldn’t serve coffee in these cups for a few months, as there were issues on the supplier’s end. So, we had a different cup. The customers were enraged and we got belted. People take things personally here. It’s a nice thing! For them, MTR is like their second home.
Rapid Fire Questions
1. A dish you’d recommend for a first-timer at MTR
Rava Idli
2. Your favourite dishes at MTR
Rava Idli and Chandrahara
3. MTR for you is…
A living, breathing thing.
It has a personality of its own.
4. Things you do to de-stress after a long day at work
I lift weights and sweat it out in the gym.
5. How would you describe your journey as
Extremely rewarding! MTR has made me the person I am today. It’s given me everything. It’s something that I will be forever indebted to.
I am a protector and a caretaker of MTR. That’s my job— caretaking.
6. What’s the secret sauce to running a successful legacy business?
Dedication, constant effort and integrity. And, no shortcuts.
7. One-line advice for anyone wanting to make it big as a restaurateur
Don’t get into the restaurant business if you think it will make you a lot of money.
It’s an extremely tough business.
8. What’s next for MTR?
We will be expanding to two new locations — Australia and another restaurant in the USA.
As we ended our chat, Hemamalini Maiya dialled the kitchen for a second cup of coffee for me. Only to be refused as the kitchen had closed for service at sharp 9 pm. I chuckled, as I realised: She was right!)
MTR is indeed a living, breathing thing with a personality of its own. A personality steeped in the resourcefulness of her grand-uncles, Parmeshwara and Ganappayya; inventiveness of her grand-uncle, Yagnanarayana; integrity of her father, Harishchandra; Hemamalini’s expansiveness; and the cherished memories of generations of its employees and customers, like mine.
Cover Image Courtesy: Sanjana Shenoy and Supplied
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