CT Review: Varsoo By Soam In Mumbai Made Me Fall In Love With Khichu & Ruined Regular Dal Baati Churma!

Growing up, I had a major influence of some traditional Gujarati and Rajasthani dishes like Dal Dhokli, Dal Batti Churma, and so many more. All thanks to my Jain-Marwadi neighbour aunty, who introduced it to me and sends me a constant supply of scrumptious hot food. Hence, visiting Varsoo by Soam in Mumbai felt a little more personal than imagined. Maybe it’s the heritage space or the food-carrying recipes that clearly existed long before the menu did.

I Found Heritage, Ghee And Pure Comfort Inside Varsoo By Soam

Started by the founder of Soam, Pinky Chandan Dixit, Varsoo sits inside a nearly 200-year-old heritage space in Mumbai, and honestly, the restaurant doesn’t try to complicate or modernise that charm.

The room feels calm, lived-in and warm without becoming overly fancy. Just a comfortable place to settle into a long meal.

The menu leans heavily into memory-driven Indian food. Dishes that sound familiar at first but arrive with enough twists to keep things exciting.

What Did I Savour At The Restaurant?

The Peru Ananas ki Chaat came first. Juicy fruit pieces with spicy notes running through every bite. Sweet, tangy and sharp all together. It wakes up your palate immediately.

Then came the Samosa Kadhi Chaat, which was far more textured than expected. The matar filling inside the samosa added bite, while the kadhi softened everything around it. Slightly messy to eat but completely worth it.

The Khichu Quietly Became The Star

The Bhakri platter with thecha and chundo-flavoured butter felt rooted and comforting. Different types, including moong, jowar, multigrain and ragi bhakri, brought their own texture and flavour to the table. But honestly, those condiments carried the plate into memorable territory.

Then came the khichu on the bed of flavourful mashed corn. Probably the most underrated dish on the menu.

Corn doesn’t naturally belong there, at least not traditionally, is what I was informed. But somehow it fits beautifully. The sweetness and texture of the corn lift the soft khichu without overpowering it. Add the ghee and spice mix on top, and suddenly the whole dish changes completely. Simple food with twists is my favourite thing to happen.

I was suggested to try pankhi at least once in my life by my Kutchi friend. So when I saw it on the Varsoo menu, I had to order one, and it didn’t disappoint. It looked delicate enough to disappear if someone inhaled loudly nearby. Extremely thin steamed gram flour sheets, lightly flavoured with cumin and salt. Subtle, but oddly addictive, the more you eat.

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The Dal Baati Churma Is Dangerously Addictive

And then came the layered dal baati churma. Easily the must-order dish at Varsoo by Soam.

This is the kind of food that forces silence at the table because everyone’s too busy eating. The baati disappears quickly, but the dal honestly deserves attention on its own. Rich, comforting and good enough to drink directly with a spoon. The papad adds crunch but mostly acts like a catalyst to the main dish.

Then there’s the churma. Heavy on ghee, loaded with nuts and genuinely addictive. Nobody at the table wanted that plate to be taken away.

Desserts stayed strong till the end. The seasonal addition, Mango Ghewar, balanced sweetness surprisingly well, while the Akhrot halwa Khaja Cups with Kulfi tucked into a pastry cup brought warmth and richness without becoming too dense.

The jamun masala drink tied everything together nicely. Refreshing, chatpata and finished with that distinct jamun aftertaste lingering right at the end.

And as the restaurant says: Aavjo, you probably will come back sooner than you imagine at Varsoo by Soam in Mumbai.

Where: 2nd Floor, Soni Building, 46, Pandita Ramabai Road, Opp Bhartiya Vidya Bhavan, Girgaon Chowpatty, Mumbai 400007
When: 11:30 AM to 10:30 PM
Cost: INR 2500 for two (approx)

Cover Image Courtesy: Deeplata Garde