If, like me, you’ve lived your whole life in India, then, like me, you must also live under the falsehood that you know what Indian cuisines entail. I use the plural ‘cuisines’ very deliberately because after visiting Mool: Kitchen & Bar, it has become apparent that reducing the sheer diversity of flavours offered in this country to a single cuisine is not only reductive but also erases regional cuisines off of the map. Luckily, Mumbai now has Mool: which is poised to not just serve but also educate us about these very unheralded regional delicacies.
Mool: Kitchen & Bar Serves Unheralded Regional Delicacies
Upon entering the dining space, you are met with the well-decorated bar. The shimmering bottles on the shelves elevate the otherwise unpretentious and laidback space. To quote my devoutly Muslim mother who has never so much as tasted alcohol “Bar ki wajah se raunak aati hai restaurant mein.”
The bouncy ambient music, coupled with the comfy chair, casts a languorous spell that is all too conducive to a delicious food coma. No sooner were we done taking in the ambience than we were greeted by Dipti Shetty, the owner of the restaurant. She regaled us with details of the philosophy behind Mool.
Gives More Than Just Credit Where It Is Due
She told us that the name is derived from a Sanskrit word which means ‘Source.’ The idea is to source authentic dishes from different parts of the country – from Kashmir to Kanyakumari – and bring them to the table. So, the chefs of Mool have all trained with home chefs from different parts of the country to learn how they do their magic in the kitchen.
The restaurant is only too keen to acknowledge these kitchen wizards and even offers a booklet which contains vignettes of these local chefs. In addition to giving credit to these chefs, Dipti also told us that the restaurant also gives royalties to these home chefs.
As a matter of fact, when the restaurant was first unveiled, these home chefs were some of the first people who got to taste the food they had helped create.
Tasting These Edible Regional Stories
So it became pretty clear that Mool crafted not just recipes but edible stories from the corners of the country. After such a thorough introduction, we were quite excited to try the food. We ordered the following: –
Amritsari Machhi Fry
Kosha Mangsho
Chicken Ghee Roast
Chilgoza Malai Broccoli
Raab
Prawn Crackers
Akshay, our kind and always-smiling server, first brought us the Prawn Crackers which came with three chutneys – Green Apple chutney, Raw Mango Chutney and Coriander chutney. The chutneys were a perfect amalgam of playful and tangy flavours.
Then, we relished the Raab which had strong ghee and ajwain flavours. If you’re a light eater and are not looking for anything heavy, the raab will satiate you perfectly. They came with light and crispy ragi crackers which brought a texture fest to the dish.
Speaking of textures, the Amritsari Machhi Fry was a treat in that regard. And this is coming from someone who does not like seafood. The crust of the fish nuggets was lightly crispy and well-salted and gave way to a surprisingly pillowy bite. Paired with the coriander chutney, it was a flavourfest!
To wash it all down, we got two of their state-themed beverages. Goa and Karnataka. To our delight, Karnataka was served in a faux coconut. The beverages were very refreshing and turned out to be the perfect accompaniments to our food.
The Flavour-Fest At Mool: Kitchen & Bar Continues!
The Chicken Ghee Roast, which was sourced from Lalitha Poojary from Mangalore came on a thin Parotta. One bite of this roast and you’ll realise that ‘Ghee’ deserves to be in the name of this dish. It was not just well-spiced, it was masaledaar! The Parotta had soaked up all the ghee from the chicken and every bite felt like a decadent indulgence. I was actually polishing off the plate by the end!
I had always heard of Kosha Mangsho so that was the dish I was most excited about. To my utter surprise and delight, it tasted very familiar. The spices were just right and the mutton was very tender.
The Chilgoza Malai Broccoli, too, turned out to be full of surprises. If, like my mother, you do not enjoy broccoli, this dish will surely change your mind on the vegetable. It was very rich and creamy but also managed to remain very light on the stomach. A must-try for those who love food that surprises them.
Dessert Abhi Baaki Hain Doston
We were already very stuffed but how could we leave without having dessert? We got the Kola Bhator Payok which is essentially made from milk and black rice. The taste made me think of Kheer but if it was all decked up to go to a wedding. The creamy coconutty flavours were the perfect end to this rich and flavourful feast.
With our hearts and souls thus satiated, we thanked our host and made our way out of the restaurant already longing for the day we would come back to it.
Also Read: CT Review: I Visited Aamchee At Girgaum & Rediscovered Bambaiya Flavours With A Continental Twist
Where: Fort, Mumbai
When: 12 PM to 3 PM and 7 PM to 12 AM
Cost: ₹2,500 for two approx
When are you taking your crash course on Indian cuisines and heading to Mool? Let us know in the comments section below!
Cover Image Credits: @moolmumbai/Instagram
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First Published: February 19, 2024 7:26 PM