This is the second time I have spoken with Chef Gaggan Anand, and I always look forward to it. The last time I saw him, he was running around with grey hair and joggers. But his drive to succeed is still there. He exudes an aura of passion and creativity. His eyes sparkled with enthusiasm as he greeted guests and effortlessly moved through the dining area. And oh! he embodies the spirit of a true culinary artist. What struck me most about Chef Gaggan Anand was his ability to push the boundaries while staying true to the essence of Indian flavours. “The inspiration for my menus and food concepts comes from memories, emotions and a desire to challenge culinary norms,” says Chef Anand. But, there’s a rockstar side to Chef Anand. Chef rebel? Boundary-pusher? Chef is all of these things and beyond.
Cooking & Conversations With Gaggan Anand
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Back in his hometown, Kolkata, Anand hosted a unique culinary pop-up event, titled “Eat, Cook, Play with Chef Gaggan Anand,” at JW Marriott Kolkata. His early experiences in Kolkata laid the foundation for his deep-seated connection to Indian cuisine. “In India, we cook with our tongues here, so I need to keep coming back to keep learning and keep reviving memories or I will lose my cooking tongue,” he explains.
“Returning to my hometown, Kolkata always brings me immense joy. Not just Kolkata, but every city in India has its speciality and is filled with nostalgia and encourages me to discover more. The uniqueness of my cooking approach stems from a blend of memories, the dynamic culture of the city and a constant desire to challenge conventional culinary norms. Each dish is an invitation to play and innovate. It is meticulously crafted, combining elements of memories, nostalgia, textures, taste and surprise.”
Chef Gaggan has a knack for taking familiar flavours and presenting them in unexpected ways. For example, the “Lick It Up” course, a playful and interactive moment in the meal, encapsulated this ethos. “The inspiration for my menus and food concepts comes from memories, emotions and a desire to challenge culinary norms. For me, a good chef should only be a good cook, a good human being and believe in equality. And in the kitchen people should be treated as humans and not as animals. Also when I put something on the plate, it’s essential to make sure to cook ethically so that cooking is honest. It is also very important that a good chef be a passionate foodie as that is what is reflected in the food,” he adds.
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The notion of balancing tradition with innovation was a recurrent theme in our discussion. Throughout the conversation, Chef Gaggan’s engaging personality shone through.
Luxury Through Food…
Chef Gaggan Anand: “I think in the past few years India has empowered itself with regional Indian cuisine and not just Chinese or Japanese but more Asian cuisine and more global cuisines that were untouched like Nikkei cuisine or Spanish cuisine or some cuisines that have been not yet been explored are being explored in India. I think the best thing is that we are also highlighting our street food and fine dining at many hotels and that gives us the empowerment to showcase northeastern cuisine or hidden cuisines of India that were never encouraged can be part of our landscape.”
Also Read: Chef Gaggan Anand Is Coming To Kolkata’s Vintage Asia Restaurant With Pop-Up, “Eat, Cook, Play”
Challenges In Cooking In India
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“My biggest challenge in India is to cook blind because many people are indecisive in their diets, they often change their minds. When they see the dish, even if it’s a mushroom that they don’t like, they want it. These are the challenges. They want to each truffles and not mushrooms and this is all part of this crazy, Indian culture. We are very demanding and this is very challenging for me. Because my food is not about what they want to eat, but about what I want to give them. And that is the challenge I like to take and then surprise them. I focus on staying true to the Indian essence by using local ingredients, to original flavours and even encouraging my guests to eat with their hands!”
Surprising Diners Continues
“The biggest risk I have taken in Indian cuisine is that I never gave up on my humble grassroots. I am eating what I call domestic food habits and placing them on the highest level. Not twisting them by taste but twisting them in the way they look and the way they are presented and interpreted. But in the end, when you put it in the mouth it takes everybody back to the memory lanes.”
What’s Lacking Behind
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“I love using Indian ingredients in India. I often find it saddening that we give importance to imported ingredients. We do not encourage our farmers to grow better and grow finer. In the years to come, I hope that in India we don’t try to give Japanese fruits or Thai Mango or Thai Melon more leverage than the humble Sweet Lime or Guavas from India or seasonal fruits. It’s time we showcase them and try to encourage the farmers to grow them. We even need to preserve them better and the freshest logistics to be sent to the hotels so we can use the best.”
Travel & Cooking
“My extensive travels have been a significant influence on my menus and a source of knowledge about different cuisines. It's about embracing diversity, innovating and incorporating global influences but staying true to the essence.”
Most Important Kitchen Ingredients
My favourite ingredient is chilli, of course! I can’t imagine the world without chilli, it’s the essence of all kitchens. I also feel we don’t give due importance to our Indian ingredients just as the humble sweet lime, guava and other very Indian seasonal ingredients.
What’s Next For Gaggan Anand?
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“I am now focused on my next big launch. It is an extremely luxurious restaurant in Bangkok which will be the biggest thing I have ever done in my entire life!”
In 2023, he and his team earned the prestigious #5 position on Asia’s 50 Best List and an astounding #17 position on the World’s 50 Best List. “While I often emphasize the importance of teamwork. We are a team of thinkers and innovators, and they are gifted. This event is nothing less than an orchestra where I am the conductor of the food opera,” he tells about his team.
The more you talk to Chef Anand, the more you realise beyond the exquisite flavours, there is a deeper layer of meaning woven into every culinary creation. His passion for pushing boundaries, challenging norms, and creating an emotional connection through food is what still sets him apart.
Cover image credits: Instagram/Gaggan Anand
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