CT Review: I Dined At Zarf, A Modern Indian Restaurant That Brings Lost Indian Recipes & Techniques To The Table

Zarf- The Indian Kitchen has an eagle-eyed telos — to bring lost Indian recipes and cooking techniques to the forefront. A sleek, modern Indian restaurant peeking through the lobby of Sheraton Grand Bengaluru Whitefield Hotel & Convention Centre, Zarf demands your attention, promising its foreign diners more than just the regular Butter Chicken; and its Indian patrons, a culinary journey that starts from Kashmir and ends at Kanyakumari.

Zarf: A Modern Indian Restaurant That Strives For Culinary Elegance

Since Zarf short for Zarafat means “elegance” apart from it being located at Sheraton, it’s not surprising to expect an ambience that’s nothing sort of captivating. The baby grand piano at the entrance, the cosy bar illuminated in gold, a chandelier that looks like a family heirloom, to the jharokha wall panelling separating the dining area from the bar, are testaments to the muted grandeur of the space. Unlike many fine-dining restaurants specialising in regional Indian cuisine, Zarf takes a step away from the cliche maximalist decor to give way to elegance.

I was greeted at my table by Chef Hardeep Singh, the Chef De Cuisine at Zarf who gave me a glimpse of the culinary journey I had signed up for the afternoon. A sincere attempt to not just tantalise the taste buds of guests but also educate them about the lost Indian recipes, ingredients and cooking techniques is seen on the first page of the menu. 

Forgotten Recipes, Ingredients & Cooking Techniques Take Centre Stage

Chef Hardeep’s in-depth knowledge of the ingredients and their origins set the tone for the lunch. Tales about the origins of a succulent mutton inspired by Peshwar’s Namak Mandi (Salt Market) to Goolar (figs) found in plenty in the Bellary region of Karnataka, got me excited about how these tales would translate on the table.

A papad basket with an assortment of chutneys from across India served in a masala box delighted me. I was overcome with a sense of excitement and curiosity to sample the chutneys with the crisps. From Uttarakhand’s bhang ki chutney to Karnataka’s pachadi to Punjab’s smoky tomato chutney, there were lots to choose from.

This was followed by a stream of appetisers like the Banarasi Tamatar Chaat, Tribute to Himalayas and Tandoori Lasooni Prawns. The addition of burrata in the tamatar chaat was much welcomed. The fresh cheese cut through the stodginess of the chatpata tomato gravy.

When the server lifted the cloche to unravel Tribute To Himalayas, I gasped, just like I would seemingly do so at my first glance of the Himalayas. Guchhi mushrooms from Kashmir sat beautifully on the plate shrouded in a saffron foam that resembled the characteristic mist you’d see in a mountain destination. It’s beauty on a plate and of course, the flavours were top-notch.

Tandoori Lasooni Prawns are a must-have for seafood lovers. Think barbeque prawns straight out of the grill with an invigorating taste of confit garlic.

Drinks Infused With Nostalgic Indian Notes

To get the luncheon rolling, I sipped the kokum and kala-khatta-flavoured Juhu G&T, the saffron-infused Zaraafat and Kala Khatta Chuski, a mocktail. Despite Zaraafat being the signature cocktail at Zarf, I inclined more towards the Juhu G&T, it was punchy and had a lovely balance. Teetotallers can lean towards the trusted Kala Khatta mocktail.

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A Flavour Journey Across India

My culinary journey had one destination — flavour town— but it was studded with many inviting stops. Some of which were Kathal Goolar Kebab, Peshawari Namak Mandi Lamb Chop and Zarf Murg Tikka. Singh informed me that the Kathal Goolar Kebab was inspired by the Ulsoor and Bellary districts of Karnataka where jackfruits and figs once grew in abundance.

While I was taken aback by this page in food history, the flavours didn’t quite stand out for me. I found it too sweet and heavy for my palate and yearned for a medley of textures and flavours to go with it. Straight out of the Namak Mandis of Peshawar, Lamb Chop in Zarf was beautifully cooked. Sheathed in a marination of Lahori pink salt and a blend of Peshawari spices, the New Zealand chop exuded robust flavours in its tender meat.

As for the Zarf Murg Tikka, it was a classic murg tikka that was zhuzhed up with a gold leaf, a dish which I’m told is lapped up by Zarf’s foreign clientele.

Palate Cleansers Ahead Of The Mains

Before I proceeded to mains, Chef Hardeep and his team at Zarf presented me with two palate cleansers —Mushroom Chai and Jamun Ice Cream. For the year-round cloudy, chilly weather that Bengaluru boasts of, Mushroom Chai is perfect! A thin soup packed with spices served in a teacup accompanied by a bite-sized truffle naan was a mid-lunch high-tea I didn’t expect.

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I was overwhelmed by the spice-bomb the first sip entailed. But by the second sip, I was in for the ride. A warm, comforting flavour took over my throat. A soup your mom would recommend you, to get rid of that sore throat! And the jamun ice cream was a pacifier for my digestive system.

Jodha Bai’s Favourite Dal Prepared Table-Side

Coming to the mains, Zarf left no stone unturned in making my lunch a regal feast. On my table was Black Mutton Curry with Bullet Podi Idli, Prawn Moilee, Pahadi Saag Chilgoza, rice, bread basket and the star of the show for me— Dal-E-Zarf.

Inspired by Jodha Bai’s favourite toor dal, Dal-E-Zarf was prepared table-side. Copious amounts of fresh ghee, mint and tamarind chutneys went into it. Topped with crisp moong dal. The complexity of flavours for a dal that looked unassuming left a solid impression on me. If I were to head back to Zarf for just one dish, it would have to be the Dal-E-Zarf.

A Royal Feast

The Black Mutton Curry with Bullet Podi Idli would be a strong contender for one of the best mains on my table. Showcasing the distinct flavour of Karnataka’s Bannur Meat, this is an elevated military hotel-style mutton curry. I’ve had better. The Pahadi Saag Chilgoza is a comforting saag made of chilgoza, a pinenut native to the Northwest Himalayan region. I have to admit, Prawn Moilee was a dish that I didn’t have much to write home about. I’ve had better.

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For dessert, I was served the Mishti Doi Cheesecake with fresh berries sitting atop ghevar. The dense cheesecake coupled with a damp ghevar didn’t seem to complement each other. Rather, I left, craving a dessert that was lighter on the palate and more refreshing for my taste buds.

So, does Zarf- The Indian Kitchen demand your attention? Yes, it does!

Chicken cooked in age-old kunnas or earthen claypots; dal simmered with forgotten Mughal-era flavours; lamb marinated in Lahori pink salt; ingredients like asparagus( once grown in India in hordes) are celebrated and revitalised in the memories of diners. And that’s what you’d want as a diner- to be surprised, enthralled and even educated.

Where: Sheraton Grand Bengaluru Whitefield Hotel & Convention Center, Whitefield, Bangalore
When: 12:30 to 3 pm and 7 pm to 11 pm
Cost: ₹3,000 for two people approx.

Cover Image Courtesy: Sanjana Shenoy