Kolkata houses many revolutionary hotels and restaurants that used to be a regular for many freedom fighters. From the origins of Kolkata’s renowned rosogolla to a centuries-old breakfast establishment offering traditional Bengali jolkhabar on banana leaves, these eateries continue to be the lifeline of this city. Imagine an authentic Bengali adda with deep-fried telebhaja over a cup of steaming hot tea that would have led to sharing rebellious views on the country’s freedom. Such was the ambience at Lakshmi Narayan Shaw & Sons where Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose used to go with his comrades.
Netaji & Telebhaja With Tea
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There are numerous locations in Kolkata that link the city’s past and present. Lakshmi Narayan Shaw And Sons is located in Sovabazar-Sutanuti, one of the three villages that combined to establish modern Kolkata in the 17th century. Established by Khedu Shaw in 1918, the store is said to have served as a gathering place for rebels throughout the struggle for independence. This snack restaurant is well-known for its savory telebhaja cutlets, fritters, and croquettes. Their specialties include soybean-er chop and aamer chop, or mango fritters.
It is said that Subhas Chandra Bose used to love telebhaja and muri, or puffed rice. Bose’s relation with telebhaja never ended. Lakshmi Narayan Shaw & Sons’ telebhaja quickly found its way into the revolutionaries of Bengal’s covert meetings. Meanwhile, Khedu Shaw began to send telebhaja and a kettle of hot tea there. Over time, the restaurant evolved into the rebels’ covert command center. It was the hub where correspondence, documents, and details about meetings held in secret were exchanged.
Present-Day Lakshmi Narayan Shaw And Sons
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On the evening of January 16, 1941, Bose broke free from British captivity, left Kolkata, and started the Indian freedom movement. On Bose’s birthday in 1942, Khedu Shaw gave out free telebhaja to everyone in the neighborhood. After five years, India gained its independence. Netaji’s devoted fan Khedu Sahu said that the store would give away free telebhaja on January 23rd of each year to commemorate Netaji’s birthday.
Today, Lakshmi Narayan Shaw and Sons is referred to as Netaji’r telebhaja’r dokan by both Bengalis and locals. Additionally, the third generation beholders of the shop continue the tradition that Khedu Shaw established, serving everyone from morning till night.
An essential component of Bengali cooking is telebhaja. Even now, hot telebhajas and muri are the ideal combination. The dish is actually more of a category of dishes than a single dish. At this shop, phuluri, paneer chop, soya chop, and peyaji (onion fritters) are some of the best-selling items.
So, if you’re in North Kolkata, do make your visit to this historic shop, Lakshmi Narayan Shaw And Sons.
Where: 158, Bidhan Sarani Rd, Sovabazar, Hati Bagan, Machuabazar, Kolkata
When: 9 am–10 pm
Cover image credits: Facebook/Lakshmi Narayan Shaw and Sons
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